Everywhere you go always take the weather you, and true to the poetic words of Crowded House we bought the thunderstorms straight into Hungary!  We’ve worked out that moral is safe after two days of rain but if you’re hit with a third, tents, clothes and moods er on the damp side.

Our rest days in Slovakia were well needed after the last downpour and we’ve applied the logic of stopping for two days now as the first invariably involves cleaning and washing all the kit and bikes and catching up on admin and route planning.  Due to taking a slightly longer route across Europe we had to make up some time in order to meet Becky in Romania so our first day back on the road involved a 3 hour train journey across the width of Slovakia.  It was a shame not to see more of the country but a good excuse to visit again soon.

We’re starting to realise that in a lot of cases border crossings tend to be at the top of a rather large hill and entering Northern Hungary was bang on trend with a sneaky climb. The ups must come down and we had a great downhill before taking a lead from the Garmin navigator to go off road.  At some point we’ll be writing a note to Garmin as it certainly does take you on some goose chases across country.  Another juicy mountain ensued topped off by a cracking downpour and as we reached the bottom we took refuge until we had seen the worst.

The flood gates open

We only touched the tip of Hungary and traversed the Plateau of the North in two days.  The scenery reminded us of the flat lands of Holland and it was funny to think it had been 6 weeks since we left British shores.  Thankfully the weather tidied itself up and as we crossed the border to Romania we were gliding along in the sunshine once again.

Romania has been our first taste of being off the beaten track.  As soon as we crossed the border we were sharing the roads with people trapping along in horse and carts. Romany Gypsies pulling their homes on wheels and stray dogs have also become part of our day to day. Life certainly moves at a slower pace here and what a beautiful way to keep the pace set by taking a horse and cart, a far cry from our frantic London commutes.

Keeping it old school

Much of the farming is also still done by hand (the horses are getting a right royal work out) and all over the countryside are real life ‘haystacks’.  Cycling through deserted villages with these dotted around like thatched wigwams as far as the eye can see is a site which makes you feel like you’ll bump into Bilbo Baggins and co. Adding to the magic, particular to the North West region which considers itself more Hungarian, the woman mainly wear headscarfs and traditional dress with the chaps donning Austrian wide brimmed hats.

Better by hand

Thatched wigwams as far as the eye can see

No matter how small or rural the towns we’ve passed through across the width of Eastern Europe each one comes with an immaculately kept church large enough to hold at least the entire village.  Though we don’t know the ins and outs of religion in these countries its plain to see how it binds the community together as a meeting point and hub.

Metallic roofed churches in Romania

So far we’ve found the Romanian people to be friendlier than their neighbours and have spent a couple of evenings being generously looked after on the camping and eating front.  Boys on loaded bikes is something they don’t see much of around here (a fact the horse and faithful cart will be pleased to hear) so it’s lovely to feel so welcomed.  We’ve just had the most breathtaking few days cycling through the Apuseni Mountains.  Hills are becoming more of a joy and we’re both well matched physically to urge each other on as things get steeper.

Donkey and Horse being well looked after

A evening view from the tarpaulin wonder

There is a magic to Romania, with Ireland its the people and stories, London has the energy and air of potential and NZ  has the light and Nature.  Here it’s the untouched wildness of the place that seems to buzz your insides.  It’s without a doubt been our favourite country so far and we’d say to anyone who has the opportunity to come out here ASAP before everyone cottons on.

Soul food

Keeping our hooves cool Romanian style

In a days time we’ll be heading to Sighisoara to meet Becky and Brians friend Seb for a few days touristing and rest and recuperation.  It will be great to see some familiar faces and stock up on Chamois Butter and Laphroig care of duty free so we’ll try and post again in the coming weeks.

This months chocolate bar has to go to the Dark Bounty – I know I have some marketing experience but it really is the taste of paradise.

Also it wouldn’t be right not to mention the Snickers again – it continues to surprise and delight us with its versatility and mind bending nuttiness.  Only last night we enjoyed a snickers dipped in Strawberry yoghurt for dessert….the dream is alive!!

Hope everyone’s looking after themselves 🙂

TT & B

xx