We decided to head to Bulgaria since we last left you.  The call and isolation of the mountains was too great and we’ll absolutely be heading back to Romania some day.  As we waved goodbye to Club Tropicana at the end of our rest day the proprietors had started packing away all the sun beds and chairs for the end of the season. We hope it had been a busy summer for them and it was a poignant thing to have our journey into a new season punctuated by such a visual cue.

Over the Danube into Bulgaria

The weather and light has begun to change even on the flat banks of the Danube and the sun is growing weaker as she drops in the sky.  Autumn is without a doubt my favourite season as it seems so sincere compared to the others.  Nature being stripped back to her bones and the smells, light and sounds all go a few tones deeper and richer.  Even the fog seems to last longer and on a few days post crossing the border we’ve been cycling towards mountains that slowly seep out of the mist as you draw closer, quite a humbling experience against the magnitude of it all.

We headed towards the Bulgarian border with a 80 mile day under our belts and as we flew over the Danube to new shores we put in another 60 mile day to reach Belogradchick.  This second day has to have been our toughest day cycling to date.  The three H’s (headwind, hills, heat) were with us every bloomin step of the way and the last ten miles were pretty hellish.  We’d heard about cyclists ‘plonking’ when they run out of carb reserves and if it wasn’t for the omnipresent joy of the gummy bears, we would have well broken our plonking virginity.

Post the vengeance of the three H’s and taking care of 4 days mileage in 2 we took a well deserved rest day in Belogradchick. This was our first chance to get a taste of our new country and we spent the day looking around the red fort, sitting in squares eating ice creams and catching up on the obligatory admin and route planning.

The red fort built into the rocks above Belogradchick

Our admin bought with it some disappointing news as we found out that we could no longer enter Iran unless on an approved tour.  Predictably it’s fine for the ever neutral Irish nationals but British, American and Canadian are on the naughty list.  Before leaving the UK we’d heard the British embassy had just re-opened so this was a bit of a downer to say the least.  After much research and reading about lots of confused travellers we agreed to throw in the towel.  Now for some it may be a relief we’re not going to Central Asia though for Brian and I this was the part of the trip we were most looking forward too.  Alas, along with the closing of the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan and the Karakoram highway in North Eastern Pakistan, we’ve decided to save the whole of Central Asia for another trip and head South through Turkey post Istanbul.  We’re still yet to firm up the details of our broader onward journey but will keep you posted and our itinerary updated on here when we know.

As we took to the road again we decided to stick more vehemently to our daily mileage of between 33-40 in order to take in the mountainous route through the Vrachanski Balkan national park.  Getting further into Bulgaria we began to notice the differences between her Eastern European neighbours.  We’d read that the North West of the country was fairly off the beaten track and as we came into towns and villages we were met with lots of derelict buildings and unkept communist monuments.  There has been a slight air of faded glory and although more empty countryside than Romania there seemed to be far less farming as a way of life.  The smiles and enthusiasm we’d be greated with in countries prior had drawn back though we’ve found once you stop and engage one to one for directions or such like, as with the Germans, the exterior thaws and you’re met with a unique magic, warmth and charm.

A popular choice for Bulgarians and myself and Brians favourite car – the Lada 4×4

One element of Eastern Europe that remains stubbornly consistent has been the stray dogs.  Imagine for a second cycling along a quiet country road or indeed a fairly busy road, nothing is spared as far as these critters are concerned, and you’re met by one or even a pack of angry stray dogs.  Their appendage of choice is either the back wheel or your legs and you have to try and stay on track, away from oncoming traffic, cycle faster and get rid of the rabid ankle biters!  Thankfully, before we left we were given a couple of Hornit horns, link here, and we’ve found that blasting these at the same time is enough to keep most dogs at bay.

Our passage into the Vrachanski Balkan national park was pretty amazeballs as we took a climb through a 5000 foot gorge into our mountain pass.  I sometimes wonder why everyone loves Brian Phelan so much but our hills have taken on a new joy due to his commitment to music, and now I love him a little bit more.  He’s managed to fashion a speaker/iphone combo to our handle bars so we’re now urged on with a suitably yummy base line, feel the rhythm and pic below.  Reaching the top of a climb and meeting the vista of mountains as far as the eye can see never looses its impact and on finding a fresh water spring just below the summit, we decided to pitch our tent for a night of wild camping.

Our pass into Vrachanski Balkan

Brians bike sound system with an additional lucky bird ablution and Hornit Horn

About this time a year ago we were lazing in Victoria park in Hackney with a cold cider, researching our trip. It’s funny to think that we’re now doing what we had read so much about.  Often we catch ourselves both on and off the bike, feeling like we’re in the pictures from our cycle touring books.  Watching the sun set and rise over a mountain range with deer and wild horses for company, and it’s all absolutely free, is pretty special and feels very far from Victoria Park.

Goodnight from the mountain top

Good morning Horse(s)!

We’re still in the Stara Planina mountains a few days on and have been continuing our climbs, passes and views.  We’re writing this blog having been rained into a guest house for the day at the bottom of another climb.  It’s no bad thing to be beholdant to the weather and we’re sure our bodies will be grateful for the rest 🙂  Post here we’ve got a few days on the flat and will be cycling through the Valley of Roses, famous for producing rose oil, and then eventually onto the Black Sea coast for a 3 day break.  So lots more to see in Bulgaria and we’ll be sure to keep you updated on how things go.

A taste of the mountain roads, bumpy time

This month we would also like to stop and give praise to the Almond Magnum.  As Becky will testify on meeting us last month, when the craving for one of these beauties hits you can only but answer.  It’s creamy and refreshing and the perfect companion after a hot day in the saddle.  Praise and glory be!!

Sending all our love as usual and special love to my brothers, Becky and little Artie who all shared their birthday on the 2nd September.  One year older and one year more fabulous….admitedly Arties only 2 but he’s by far the most sparkly of the bunch 😉

Bon voyage for now

Brian & Tommy

xxxx