The call of the wild has been reigning strong in our hearts since the last post!  (Partly because we’ve recently read John Wyndhams appropriately named classic, if you haven’t – it’s a super absorbing 100 page read).  It’s been wild camping, border crossings, isolated nature parks and what would it be without a few thunderstorms to keep the game on.

Our batteries were fully charged on heading south from Sozopol and as we’d made up some time crossing Bulgaria, we were able to keep the mileage low and take in the coast road.  As with the rest of the western world, Bulgaria too has felt the sharp claws of recession and her coast line is strewn with carcasses of grand hotels that didn’t make it past their skeleton structures.  We spoke to a few locals on route who told us that this had been the picture for the last 5-6 years.  With a more positive hat on though and along with the shutters coming down for the end of the season, it felt like nature had won out in reclaiming the land back she once had.

Our first stop South was in the town of Tsarevo after which we headed on to the Strandzha National Park and finally arrived at Silistar beach.  As the road became less travelled and the coastal towns more sporardic it was a delight to arrive at a deserted beach and find a few fellow wild campers.  There were a couple of Ukranian guys who’d cycled down from their homeland and an 18 year old German boy who’s parents had let him hitchike from Hamburg to Eastern Europe via the Nordics (another suitable top trumper ;)).  With the nearest town 10km either way we stocked ourselves up for 3 days and nights camping on the hoof.

Seaside views and rough seas in Tsarevo

Silistar beach with our little green tent middle left

Due to arriving on the Friday there was a fare share of beach dwellers who joined us over the weekend and the weather was bikini-tastic to boot.  Each night after the punters had left it was just the wild camping posse, ever-present mosquitos, the campfire and sharing stories. By the last night our fellow travellers had moved on and Brian and I were left alone.  As if to take advantage of our isolation Mother Nature pulled her pants down and let out an almighty ROAR! We woke in the middle of the night to find ourselves firmly plopped in the eye of the storm. Lighting bolts every 5 seconds and rain so heavy it was hard to hear each other speak. We both wondered how long we’d last as the highest thing with metal on it around were our tent poles.  We hung on (to each other) until the worst had passed and were blessed to wake with clear skies and calm sea the next day.  Getting our gear ready and de-sanded for the road meant the trauma of the night before was soon forgotton and happiness was only a coffee break and snickers away.

A well earned sunrise for camping on the wild side

Lonely seas

We were sad to leave the freedom of the beach and had to re-trace our steps up the coast to Tsarevo before heading back into the national park woodlands to cross the border to Turkey.  As our wheels rolled into the park so rolled back the thunder and lighting.  Being strong headed boys we horsed on until we were wet to the skin before admitting defeat and heading for shelter.  As we’d stopped in a village we chanced our luck with a restaurateur to see if he’d let us crash/put up our tent in his grounds (this method of asking for pitches as we go will hence forth be referred to as Ask’y camping).  We struck gold as it turned out the boss was away and there was unoccupied staff rooms in a house near by that we could use for the night, result!  Ask’y camping has never led to such an astounding result and nor will it do again for quite some time we’re sure! So it was warm showers and clean beds for a great nights kip.

The inland wooded area of the national park was a fairly challenging cycle (as we know from previous crossings, the border is not a border unless there are hill climbs a plenty) and the forest was mainly populated with majestic Oaks.  With the golden autumn light and the tips of the leaves turning with the seasons embrace we were reminded of home and late summer walks in Richmond Park and Hampstead Heath. To make the most of our last beautiful day in Bulgaria we headed into the wilderness and pitched our tent in a secluded valley by a bubbling crystal clear river.  We were far too clean from the night before to justify another wash in the chilly river so it was a quick wet wipe and into bed.

Wind blown Oak forest

Our last morning in Bulgaria

The temperature is definitely joining us on our journey South and we started our cycle to the border with trousers on for the first time this trip.  Luckily the hills got the blood pumping and as we crossed into Turkey it was sunshine, downhills and lots of smiley faces and honking horns.  We really had a spectacular time in Bulgaria, seeing much of what there is to offer in such a diverse country, but it’s always with great excitement you push through to the next point on the journey.

Turkey tastique

Our first night in Turkey delivered another succesful ask’y camp and a farmer let us pitch our tent on his land, providing us with a night cap of a bucket of water to wash and a delicious watermelon.  Taking to our evening routine we were greeted with the call to prayer and a beautiful sunset that saw the end of our first day in Turkey.  Up early the following morning we had a 60 mile day ahead to reach the Black Sea coast in Kiyikoy.  As our destination grew near the heavens opened and we sloshed into the first pensiune we found on entering the old town.  Two days passed with even more rain, which led to a cut out of electricity and running water.

Although Brian and I both struggle with being indoors and sitting still it gave us some well needed time to make a few repairs on our tent. Mostly superficial holes and tears but we also managed to fix our poles which broke early on back in the Czech Rep.  Sitting in the dark room with our head torches as lights, bending and cutting metal to fix on with metal clasps, (a process that took about an hour and a half) gave us a real sense of team achievement.  (We’re still going to e-mail the manufacturer to try and get a spare just in case ;)). Getting the tent ship shape for the months ahead, crossing back into a country where our budget is stretched and really starting to feel the days and weather close in, we know the time ahead will be some of our most challenging.  Routines have become more perfected and we’ve settled into our roles and responsibilities but those unplanned cheeky challenges are only ever a peddle or two away.  All part of the adventure and we’ll definitely keep sharing whatever comes our way, warts and all.

6 lanes of new motorway all to ourselves on the way into Istanbul

From Kiyikoy we had 2 x 50 mile days to get to Istanbul where we’d arranged to stay with a chap from Warm Showers in the Northern suburbs.  (Warm Showers is a global network of cycle tourists who put up their couches and spares rooms for people to crash whilst on expeditions, something we’ll definitely be using more of as we go across Turkey.  If you want to get a better overview click here). We’re being looked after by a lovely guy at the moment and will be heading into the centre (a further 20km along the Bosphurus – Istanbul is massive) to meet some friends from London for a few days off.  We’ll also be meeting some biking buddies, Andre and Claire, who left London a week before us and have cycled their way here too. A great chance to share stories and bore each other with bike talk and dramas from the road!

Come Monday we’ll be packing up again for our journey South down the turquoise coast to Antalya .  Hopefully the sun will be shining and the wind at our backs 🙂

Until then, we hope everyone is keeping well and those in Blighty have been enjoying their Indian summer.

Love all over the place……watch out, it’s messy!

Thomas and Brian

xxxx