Expectations can sometimes set us up for a fall. Valentines day will pass flowerless and chocolate free, the washing up will still be growing a week on and that take out pizza didn’t quite match up to the meat tremors of desire.  The Andaman & Nicobar Islands on the other hand, really do hit the spot.  Our expectations are a distant memory and the glow of an unexplored paradise now engulfs our hearts.

Indians keep Andaman & Nicobar to themselves.  It’s a archipelago of 572 islands and is still home to indigenous tribes, many of whom it remains illegal to contact.  Although it sits far closer to the West coast of Thailand than the Eastern shores of it’s mother land, the only flights and ferries here are via India.  This serves to keep it magically unspoilt both for the national and few international tourists who make the trip.

The water off the jetty on our arrival

The dazzling visual clichés deliver the goods. From the deserted snow-white beaches to the sapphire waters as clear as a summer sky.  Forests of giant silver barked trees, spider rooted mangroves and the tropics signature palm tree nestle the shores with their iridescent green canopies and the seas are balmy and bursting with wildlife.

Beach 7 on Havelock….hits the spot

Our introduction to Andaman was the most populated island of Havelock.  48 hours of planes, taxis, transfers and ferries teamed up with leaving our bikes on the main land (alone for the first time) saw us arrive ready for some hammock TLC.  With no bikes and Brian taking his Open Water diving course (thanks for the Chrimbo gift Kieran), it was a blessed change to stay in one place for a while.

However, the tropical wind down was put on hold, as a couple of days after our arrival was the festival of Holi. Indians across the land welcome the start of Spring by going bonkers with handfuls of multicoloured powders and buckets of dye.  Having spent a previous Holi in Jaipur I knew no-one gets off lightly and on the way back from the local shop I was well and truly rainbow’d.  Brian tried stealth and silence in a hammock on the beach but his green hair and scalp a fortnight on were a patriotic reminder of the festivities.

Rainbow’d Tommy

A combination of no bikes, the dive centre we used being a stones throw from our hut and our accommodation having the most popular cafe on the island, we got to meet a fantastic bunch of people over our time there.  As cyclists who choose isolation as their go too it was a wonderful reminder of what travelling in general brings. The fresh air of adventure and the buzz and energy of new conversations.  Our lives are bound by our daily environment and routine, at times even life in the saddle can ‘groundhog day’, so stepping outside and meeting new people and places that await can only be a good thing.  From a delicious mix of sculptors, festival organisers, teachers on the run, divers, cycle tourists, sommeliers and a whole lot more, it was a pleasure from start to finish.  Seeing the world through our own eyes as well as the eyes of others is undoubtedly soul food for the spiritually ravenous…and we’re going XL on our next portion!

Stray Dog and Shell art. A popular Andaman Island hobby

The Andaman also kindly tempted Brians sister, Elaine, to join us for a fortnight (luckily arriving a day late for Holi).  She came bearing gifts and the obligatory items of kit we needed replacing since our last guest, plus our cycling medicine, Laphroag.  It was a wonderful chance to all unwind, catch up and collectively swoon as the daily sights assaulted our eyes and in true big sister style we were thoroughly spoilt and consequently plumped up 🙂

And then there were 3

There’s plenty of islands to see in the archipelago. Though once the smooth laid back beachside potion seeped into our veins it was an effort to move onto the neighbouring Neil Island for a 3 day trip.  A far less developed land than her bigger sister, Havelock, though absolutely with a rhythm of her own.  Power cuts and water shortages are a daily or even hourly occurrence and along with the lack of roads, traffic, and freedom from phone signals and wifi we couldn’t help but flatline on the relaxation front.

Neil Island, with a magic of her own

Being even more paired back than Havelock, Neil delivered again on what is unique about this area; nature at her best. Untouched, free and organic.  People work around the land, respecting it for what it provides and the many faces it presents. There remains a purity and atmosphere that’s undisturbed. From watching regal sunsets pour their molten gold over a placid sea to the nirvana painted blues, greens and whites of the pristine beaches. Everything is simple and through that simplicity, perfect.  Days here feel like you’re slowly sipping a cool glass of ‘zen and tonic’ and you can’t help but let it all flow through, and gulp down another glass!

Molten gold painting the sea

We’re posting this in transit from Kolkata before we meet the Himalayas in Darjeeling.  We’ll build and load up our bikes and unload the acquired island calories.  There wasn’t a hint of reluctance in meeting our peddled steeds again but there was a deep sigh on leaving the wondrous presence of Andaman.

Back on the road and sending our love as always

Brian & Tommy

xx