How do we learn life’s lessons?  Play is the catalyst in childhood.  The hormonal tsunami of our teens makes us stretch and stumble into territories unknown.  When adulthood arrives the reflection of those around us, friends, colleagues & children, makes one consider who and what we are.  And sometimes there are single moments which become a source of strength and knowledge for years to come; the arrival of a new-born babe, the sudden loss of someone we love or indeed a Great Earthquake.

We decided to stay an extra day in Kathmandu as Brian was still on the mend. Walking through the streets to see mounds of fallen buildings with bystanders staring on was terribly unsettling. The thought of people trapped underneath, only metres away, seemed impossible. Relief in Nepal has been a cause of much international discussion.  Through a contact we had in the Red Cross it became clear that everyone was waiting for a master plan from the government.  A plan that never arrived and has left many rural villages slow to receive aid.

With the rain coming down and the Kathmandu to Pokhara highway prone to landslides, we opted for the bus out.  Coaches were being put on for free in order get people away from the Kathmandu Valley, so it was a sardine’tastic exodus on the roads and buses.  Our arrival in Pokhara brought with it another sense of confusion as is presented a gleaming lakeside tourist trap relatively untouched by the quake.  Famously situated by the Annapurna circuit and a popular destination for paragliding, walking on the pimped up main strip you could be anywhere in the world.

Pokhara lake

The quake had sent the majority of tourists home.  Those left were involved in self run aid trips to the mountain villages around Ghorka.  We helped unloading and packing vehicles where we could but both felt the need to zone out after the sights of the previous week.  We ended up spending three days in a hotel in town before cycling to a view-point above the lake in view of the Annapurna range.

HQ Pokhara: Self run aid trips

A not so clear Annapurna Range

These first three days were a bit of a blur. Our continued feeling of uselessness and coming down from the shock meant our nerves were still brittle by the time to leave arrived.  On the morning of our departure we bumped into an Aussie cycling friend we’d met in Darjeeling and took it as a sign to crash a while longer.  The solidarity of the few remaining tourists was a great solace and four more days saw us finally flatline and re-set. With the lack of potential customers, we also managed to sneak in a free paraglide from a friendly couple of thumb twirling pilots, thanks chaps if you’re reading this 🙂

Brian’s take off 🙂

The cycling gods were kind on our road out and delivered a real smasher.  Slow inclines, great surface and enough shade to stay cool.  We were heading to the medieval town of Tansen on the journey West.  People were lining the streets as we came in and our home stay host told us there had been another 7.4 quake.  Astonishingly we hadn’t felt a thing on the bikes, obviously in the zone, and we bedded down for another night of tremors.

Even the smallest wobble now has us alert.  Things that have turned into potential tremors; Trucks going past a building whilst you’re buying your basmati rice, lying on an artery for too long and it wobbling an appendage and Brian turning over in a rickety budget bed. 

From Tansen we had a tremendous 25 mile descent.  Just enough incline to keep the wheels rolling.  As our visas are running out we decided to catch a bus 150 miles to the village of Bardia.  I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, for those who travel using public transport our hats go off to you.  10 hours on a rumbling juggernaut listening to our bikes get relieved of their paint jobs above our heads was enough to put the nerves back in the fast lane.

A scenic 25 mile descent

Bardia is a sensationally tranquil spot and a perfect antidote to the Mad Max buses.  Quiet waterways weave through shaded farmland. Waterbuffalos wallow in cool pools as children bomb in around their sullen faces like a scene from Rudyard Kiplings Jungle Book. The pace is slow, and perfect. A suitably serene end to our first stint in Nepal.  It’s two more days on the flat now to the border before we start our climbs again in Uttarakhand.

River ways and village houses straight from the Jungle Book

Communal washing at the end of the day

Over the last few weeks we have shared numerous accounts of Nepals Great Quake with officials, tourists and locals alike.  This blog plays an important part of our adventure as it’s a record and story of where the road has taken us. Sharing stories in general is another way we all learn. Along with the hormones, reflections and playtime it gives us an animated window of empathy and a unique view into the world at large.  We hope whoever reads this, you get something from the stories we share and we always look forward to sharing yours as and when we can 🙂

Sending lots of love from laid back Bardia.

Tommy and Brian

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