The Himalayas.  A chain of mountains. The meeting point of the highest peaks on earth.  The snow-capped hat of India and the wondrous soul of Nepal.  A single name is given to this range but having traversed it’s length the diversity of her landscapes, people, religions, roads and magic never cease to amaze.  From our first climb alongside the toy train railway to Darjeeling, slugging up roads in Sikkim and Nepal, rumbling in the Kathmandu valley, sweltering plains and cool relief in Bardia National park, isolated Beauty in the Valley of Flowers, Rishikesh madness and to the most incredible 3 month cycle from Shimla to Srinagar, what a chapter it’s been!

The Himalayas, magic at every turn. The Valley of Flowers was an absolute highlight

It’s strange to think such a swath of land is unified by one word.  Life in the West is all about neatly boxing groups of people, lands and opinions so we can live in relative harmony, bliss or ignorance.  But what awaits those who choose to explore is more than an imagination full of firecrackers and LSD.  We’ve been taken aback by our ever-changing surroundings as much as by the people who’ve shared our journey. Our preconceptions have been blown away and at times, so to has our patience and willingness to take on ANOTHER climb.

We’ve experienced as many ‘aha’ moments about ourselves and, more importantly, the world at large throughout this chapter.  To see people living simply, happily and day-to-day without the need for a multitude of over marketed mod cons has been both humbling and enlightening.  To us it seems adventure is a unique way to learn, stepping outside our comfort zones, putting ourselves in the path of something new. Everyday life is full of these opportunities, from positive parenting, to that new hobby you’ve been meaning to start or simply keeping an open mind whatever comes your way. Being a cycle gypsy is simply more of a kick starter.  It’ surely our duty to keep our eyes open, our souls hungry and always be on the look out for adventure. Life really is too short, exciting, tempting and delicious.

Our bikes and bodies were a bit run down on arrival in Leh and after some determined day trips in the surrounding hillls, we decided to be patient and wait for the new parts with our friends from London.  Shruti and Becky were to arrive together but after missing her flight in Delhi, Shruti had to follow the next day (this young lady makes being late into an art form!)  On her touch down we celebrated her birthday in style, hit the town with our friendly French hotel neighbours and walloped Leh’s single off-licence with true British (and Irish) vigour.

Lovely Leh, our home for 2 weeks

Flying from sea level to 3,500m, the girls were knocked for six by the altitude. The first day acclimatization was consequently spent in a blur of headaches, retail therapy and planning our agenda for the next few days. We decided upon a two-day trip to the mountain lake of Pangong Tso.  The drive took us over a 5,400m pass, so if you thought the altitude sickness was bad in Leh, the girls were now main lining paracetamol.

Retail therapy for the visiting girls 🙂

And then there were 4

As one comes to know in the Himalayas the lake was as unique and beautiful as every sight that meets your eyes.  Crystal clear waters surrounded by vast sand-scaped marble mountains was a good pay off for the thumping temples.  We spent a night in a local homestay, sharing stories with the family and other travellers and even managed a dip in the icy waters!  The descent the following day gifted us with families of grazing marmots (hamsters on steroids), clear skies and a some of the most captivating Himalayan vistas to date.

Our Homestay hosts

A freezing pre-dinner dip

A hungry (chubby) marmot

A cherry on the birthday cake for B and Shruti was that the Dalai Lama flew into Leh whilst we were there to make a speech as part of his 80th birthday tour.  Thus on top of an awesome time making memories with friends we got to hear and see this living legend.  As anyone will attest who’s been in his presence, he exudes a peace, happiness and beauty that’s hard to express.  All in all we couldn’t of asked for a better time together. The memory bank is full to overflowing and thanks to both the beautiful girls for making the trip 🙂

A living legend

It was a sorry farewell but we were back in the saddles with gusto for our final Himalayan leg.  The road between Leh and Srinagar is a strategic and volatile border area between India and her neighbours.  Thus the road is littered with army camps and the accompanying caravan of vehicles and their smokey exhausts.  There are elements we won’t miss from these mountains and choking on truck fumes is top of the list!

Some things we won’t miss…

Our legs had some adjusting to do after two weeks off though the immaculate surface and my new tyres helped speed us along.  Heading West out of Leh our route took us into the Indus Valley where the river divides the Himalayas from the multicoloured Zanskar Range.  Since our arrival and departure from Leh, rain had been pouring everyday. Which, for this region as a high altitude desert, is pretty unusual.  Rivers were bursting at their seams and landslides, as ever, scattered and scuppered the roads ahead. 

High rivers and multicoloured Zanskar Mountains

Landslides and collapsing roads kept the going interesting

Wherever there’s a lonely peak or ridge in Ladakh who’ll find a Tibetan Monastery perched atop.  They sure do pick the best spots and the village of Lamayuru was yet another shining example of these masterful architects/men of cloth. After a few climb filled days we wound down for a 24 hr rest in the oasis town of Mulbeg.  The flooding rivers meant both electricity and water had been cut off so it was a candlelight affair with bucket showers, keeping us tough till the last.

No one does a Monastery/Peak combo better

The oasis town of Mulbeg

30km downhill had us on the front foot heading off.  We pit stopped in Kargil for food supplies and took to our last Himalayan climb with a mixture of melancholy, pride and relief.  After 6 months amidst these giants this was the final furlong and a huge milestone and achievement of our trip.  Quite literally years in the planning and a dream come true for us both.

As you can bet this wasn’t just any hill, 2 days climbing and a surface to make your family jewels wince!  (Perhaps another thing we won’t miss too much from the Himalayas, hills that take 2+ days to climb).  The decent was as bumpy as ever and came with a memento of a few chunks out of the palm of my hand post a rock throwing me off to have a fight with the tarmac, (the tarmac unfortunately won). Brians sympathy was short-lived after scraping me off the floor and examining my ‘superficial’ wounds (in fairness a career in oncology and palliative care might skew your perspective on suffering).

Our last night wild camping Himalayan style

We were soon back below the tree line and amidst the lush hills of Kashmir.  With the trees came the heat and it was a sweaty last day in the saddle as we rolled into our final stop of Srinagar.  A predominantly muslim town but still with the omnipresent cacophony of car horns to keep you on your toes. We’ll be exploring here for a few days before heading South to Delhi to meet our lovely friends Greg and Neil and reunite with Becky for a trip around the Rajasthan and a wander East to Varanasi.

The green hills of Kashmir

2 x dirty, tired but happy boys at the end of an epic cycle

As our Himalayan chapter draws to a close, it’s been an absolute privilege to get amongst and wrestle with these legends.  Will we miss the jugging trucks, 2+ day climbs, honking horns and photo opportunistic Indian tourists? Probably not. But were they all part of the magic? Absolutely.  Will we be back for another go someday?  We’ll answer that once Srinagar has convalesced our bumps and weary bodies….but if I was a betting man, I’d vote yes 🙂

Here’s to chapter 3 ‘The Journey East’ and keep adventuring wherever you are and however you can.

Our love, light and good vibrations.

Tommy & Brian

xx