We started this Indian chapter with our preconceptions thrown fiercely out of the window and she has kept giving to the very last drop.  I’ve strapped myself to the porcelain thrown for another round of dysentery, kaboom!  We had the most wonderful 30 hour coach trip with a particularly empathic mother who let her child wee on the floor, soggy bags anyone? And it was a bit of a shock when the hills of the Western Himalayas were replaced by the mountains of rubbish surrounding Delhi.

True to India’s paradoxical heartbeat, she may slap with one hand but she’ll be tickling your giblets with the other. We were also gifted with a trip to the Taj Mahal, experienced the sights, bustle and restaurants of Delhi and continued to understand why this country draws people in and plops them out having been through the gauntlet of every emotion and more.  India is famous as a sure-fire assault on the senses and we feel privileged to of scraped, sniffed and sweated out some of its diversity.

Delhi’s grand government buildings

On arrival to Srinagar we bumped into a Spanish couple of cycle tourers we’d met in Leh and spent a few days sharing stories around camp stove dinners. The city itself was still recovering from the effects of a flood last Autumn and we’d been warned it was not at it’s best.  The lake and infamous houseboats struck a picture but unfortunately it wasn’t long before my good old friend dysentery grabbed me my the bowels.  A slightly faded city and a rumbling abdomen had us decide to move on early to Delhi, where we’d meet up again with our friends from London.

Lakeside vistas in Srinagar

Slightly sad looking backwaters post the flood

Some things in life need not be seen to be believed! The sight of a sweaty, soiled and smelly government bus seat cushion approaching your face for a night’s rest, is one of them.  Reliably on these long journeys, we were also gifted with said caring mother as mentioned earlier.  Pre getting our bags wet with her daughters ablutions, we had a moaning child for the first few hours followed swiftly post bladder release with 4 hours spent vomiting in a bag.  A true feast for the nostrils!

By the time we got to Delhi the station was still 6km from our hotel. So we popped on our wheels, loaded up the bikes and took to the streets for a nerve shattering ride. Apparently Delhi is 3 x more polluted than Beijing and I think our lungs would completely concur. Thank goodness for small blessings as our room had hot water on tap, a luxury we’d usually live without.  Imagine a puddle of black soot and you have the left overs of our very cleansing shower.  These experiences are as much what the trip is about as cycling in isolation through Himalayan valleys, all just as fabulous fodder for stories to remember and share 🙂

Like any big metropolis Delhi comes as a patchwork of districts. From bazaar laden streets, to Washington esque boulevards and European shopping districts.  The cherry on the cake was being greeted by our dear friends Greg and Neil and meeting back up with Becky after her month-long Indian Odyssey.  I was pretty much bed ridden for the first few day together though we were soon sharing tuk tucks and the sights of Delhi as my antibiotics kicked in.

Delhi’s Washington boulevards

Greg and Becky styling out the humid sites of Delhi

The Rajasthan is the fairytale state of India. Palaces, temples, forts and of course the near by Unesco Heritage Taj Mahal.  I’d previously visited this mausoleum on my last visit to India 3 years ago but was overjoyed to get the chance to soak it up again. As anyone will know who’s been, the building itself seems to emit an energy and aura which is unbelievable to see, feel and express.  As I’d been before I took the opportunity to find a quiet spot in the shade and let this energy wash over me as the rest of the gang went around the site.  There’s more about the story of it’s history and making here. 

The Taj

Giving some Princes Di chique

For our last few days in Delhi, Becky amazingly treated us to a stay in The Claridges hotel.  Anywhere that bakes me gluten-free bread for breakfast reaches deity levels of respect in my book.  We took the opportunity to relax, unwind and chew the cuds poolside with old friends.  A little slice of heaven and huge thank you again to the fabulous Becky Pollock 🙂

It was a spot of luck to be in the lap of luxury and all together as we got news of a biopsy Brian had of a suspicious mole.  We’ve been told it needs removing as it is probably a melanoma.  So as another unexpected twist in our travelling tale we are heading back to the UK on our doctors advise to have it seen to.  We’re absolutely remaining positive that we’ll be flying back out and saddling up again soon though it will be a silver lining to get the chance to see some friends and family.

As ever, not just India comes with surprises, life does a pretty good job on its own 😉  This will probably mean a slight change of itinerary for us as we pause to get everything in order.  And as always we will keep everyone up to date when we get back on the road.

Keep those chins up and putting yourself in the way of wonderful stories!

All our love

Tommy & Brian

xx