SE Asia has been a leg of stops and starts.  Broken laptops, scorching heatwaves and gigantic Delta crossings have had us at the mercy of long breaks and multiple vessels of transit.  From local ferries like juggernauts of the sea to night buses teamed with Valium for a bit of shut-eye to weeks on end waiting for laptop repairs.  Of course the woven tapestry of cycle touring has ensured all these fractious elements are mixed with just the right amount of dazzlement in the saddle. And this leg too has served some of the most unusual and captivating scenery to date.

We currently find oursleves back in hectic Hanoi as we await said repairs.  In the space of two days on our journey North the spokes on Brians back wheel snapped and the Mac packed in for the 3^rd time since christmas.  Hanoi is a noisy, polluted and full flavour capital. So it was with reluctance we hopped on a bus back. Public holidays and international deliveries for parts have kept us city bound for over 2 weeks. And for two boys who like life on the wheel it’s been a challenge.

These challenges are of course a composite part of an adventure like this.  The good and bad is all expected and a long wait has the silver lining of time to write.  Adaptability is a trait that grows like Jacks bombastic beanstalk.  You make the best of what comes your way knowing that whatever the fix, all will soon pass.

After the otherworldly magic of the caves in Phong Na, Hanoi couldn’t of been more different. Lush green hills and wild swimming to high rises and a never-ending tide of scooters.  The capital was a necessary detour for Chinese visas, so we settled down for our first 5 day stop.

With more time to bed in we met an English teacher who showed the resident hangouts.  Escaping to the relative serenity of West Lake from the insane Old Quarter was a welcome relief.  Though the anorexic high-rise buildings of the Old Quarter are a sight to behold.  Land grants here are pricey hence buildings often only have a footprint of one or two rooms.  Though what they lack in floor space they make up for in height. Soaring to 10+ floors across the warren of narrow lanes below.

On our ascent through Vietnam gawping at the insanity of scooter drivers has swiftly overtaken people watching as the go to coffee break pastime.  It would be safe to say there aren’t many rules of the road.  Red lights are merely a sparkly jewel above an 8 lane motorway junction. And scooters go at any time with any kind of load. From precariously balanced families of 5 to crates of pigs or chickens.  Cycling has often been a daily dance of Russian Roulette.

The desire to stay in one piece saw us grabbing a coach to Halong.  From there we cycled North for a boat to the island of Cuan Do.  This government slow boat jugged us through the sea field of limestone karsts for which this region is famous.  Mountain peaks appear to hover and float above the sea.  Interspersed with vast fisheries in the calm shelters of their horseshoe structures.

From the moment we left the mainland to our return a couple of days later we were accompanied by torrential rain.  The mountains of the sea became gorillas in the mist. No less spectacular though we unfortunately missed them in all their sparkling glory.

Hitting the road and heading out of the coastal downpour we started what should have been our last 2 weeks cycling in Vietnam. The lower hills here finish what it’s neighbor Laos had begun.  Gum trees or deforestation covered slopes as far as the eye could see. Rubber trees are the undoubted lifeblood of Northern SE Asia. Coating the land and pockets of it’s once rural residents.

It was a Sunday when we left the islands.  Teamed with the lax rules of the road Sunday also seems to be the day for drink driving.  Rounding a corner to a small village it was a harrowing sight to see a dead driver covered by a rug. The unrecognisable remains of his scooter strewn across the road.  We witnessed three more accidents then in the space of the next two days. Massive trucks in ditches and childrens toys mixed with scooter debris was a reminder for the vigilance you need on the highways of this region.

Cycling wasn’t to be and a few days into saddling up five of Brians back wheel spokes snapped.  Though the consequent time off in Hanoi has also allowed him to perfect his wheel truing skills, another silver lining. We’re keeping everything crossed for a swift and effective repair once the new parts arrive.

It has certainly been an ever-changing and colourful chapter of our adventure in this part of the world.  You reflect on your limits in different ways as the trip morphs along.  Patience has been honed here as well as the importance of keeping our minds free from judgement to the madness we have sometimes found ourselves in.  As always we get far more than we expect from each pedal along the way.

If all goes to plan we’ll hopefully catch up with you again on our next chapter in Western China!

Till then, keep in fruity.

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