After a surreal last 10 days in Szechuan it was a comfort to flow into the next chapter of our journey. Filled with memories of Pascale and the Himalayas, (and well looked after by our couch surfing host, Rae, in Chengdu), it was adieu to a frantic China and hello to the tranquility of Japan.

Trying out the new camping chairs on the streets on Cheng Du

Cycling out from the airport we met perfect roads, ordered traffic (obeying the lights) and sumptuous green hills.  There’s a quietness wherever you roam in this country, set by the nature of the people, and this permeates the land and energy from the off.  If China was the wild Tibetan West meeting modern high rise madness then Hokkaido in comparison is a Stepford House Wives picture of rural perfection.  New England-esque houses, white picket fences and wonderfully ordered crop fields and farms has everything perfectly in place.

Rural perfection from the off in Hokkaido

From the touring tips we’d shared with Michael and Pascale we decided to bulk out our kit in Sapporo.  Adding a tarp and some very comfy chairs.  You learn as you go and these guys taught us to always be prepared for wet weather and not scrimp on comfort.  The tarp swiftly paid its due as we found out the source of Hokkaido’s greenness at the end of our first day.  With the tent pitched in an obliging factories carpark, the heavens opened. And unfortunately didn’t close for the next 48hrs.

New tarps and chairs come in handy for the changing weather

Our sunny touch down was a distant memory as we soggily dragged ourselves to a hostel in Sapporo city the following morning.  With 2 days heavy rain forecast we paid a whopping £25pp per night for a dorm bed.  Along with a post Brexit pound we were quickly learning Japan was going to be a stretch for the budget traveller.

Luckily a gap in the rain the next day saved the pennies and we hit the bikes.  Each country always presents new ways for you to adjust and this is never more apparent than when buying groceries.  With the camp stove having to accommodate 3 meals a day you soon learn where and how to shop.  SE Asia and China were all about the fresh daily markets, rock bottom prices and veggies in every size, shape and colour.  Japan couldn’t be more different.  The slightly sterile perfection of the houses and land seeps down the supermarket aisles.  Only the most perfect veggies and produce make the cut.  Everything is lined up, identically sized and shrink wrapped.  Unfortunately the price reflects this too.  Apples are £2 each and we spotted a punnet of cherries at a market for an eye watering £15! 

Gold plated cherries!

Though what she takes with one hand she gives with the other, most campsites in Hokkaido are FREE!!  And set in the most stupendous surroundings. From the precipice of coastal headlands, amidst the depths of beautiful forests or on the peaks of mountains. They come with toilets, taps and everything the cycle tourer needs.  Our first stop out of the city was just this.  And as the rain returned we took welcome refuge to dry everything once again before heading on.

Free camping and drying facilities

This first leg would take us up to Japans most northerly point before skirting the Eastern coast back.  Every road is as you would imagine; flat and tarmac’d to perfection.  Rolling up into Daisetsuzan National Park the 800m climb was made all the easier.  The cherry on the mountain was a free Onsen, hot spring, at the summit.  Onsen are a firm part of Japanese culture and scatter the countries length and breadth. Strip down to your birthday suite and jump in to a boiling bath to soothe away your aches and pains.  What more could you want after a days cycle.

Tarmac from heaven 😉

Free onsen to soother away your aches and pains

Mountain camping under amazing skies

On our gradual journey north the next evening was spent on the banks of a reservoir with more free camping and Onsens.  The more private and calm mood of Japan has taken some adjustment.  Well used to the hustle and bustle of SE Asia and China the campsites here are as peaceful as they come.  Everyone keeps to their own patch and their noise to a minimum.

In the absence of onsens it’s dips in reservoirs or freezing tap water washes with our pans to scrub up at the end of the day

Sunset over one of the reservoir campsites

Having briefly lived in Tokyo and visited Japan a number of times over the years I’ve always felt like I was in a bubble whenever here.  The language barrier, the societal shyness and desire to keep themselves to themselves along with the hyper clean streets and houses keeps a connection just of reach.  It’s a feeling both Brian and I have felt again here.  The tranquility and order is relaxing and a wonderful change to our adventure but the desire for solitude has been strange.  Though the overall atmosphere may be to keep yourself to yourself we’ve also been subject to as many random acts of kindness along the way.  Free drinks and snacks handed to us outside shops and the odd camper inviting us over for a glass (or three) of Saki. 

The continued peddle through the centre of Hokkaido soon had us tuning down to the calmer tone.  Gliding along roads, climbing short cuts on dirt tracks through serene forests and pitching in deserted campsites.  The peace and silence is unbelievable compared to the daily cacophony of Japans noisy Eastern neighbours.

Modern farming – spot the remote control chopper crop duster!

Open and perfect farmland

Quiet forest tracks

By the time we reached Wakkanai on the Northern coast we were ready for a couple of days rest.  The site was pitched on a mountainous headland overlooking the Volcanic island of Rishiri on one side and the bustling town port on the other.  With a touch of typical Japanese magic it was also teamed with some docile deer who came in to graze at days end.  A relaxing couple of days ensued chewing the cuds with a Canadian high school teacher about life in Japan before our turn South began.

Friendly deer sharing the campsite in Wakkanai

Volcanic island/mount Rishiri off the Northern coast

Wildlife has been a daily surprise for us here too.  Along with the docile deer we’ve stopped for snakes crossing the road and friendly foxes in lay-bys.  The first day back on the bikes even saw us stumble on some frighteningly fresh (and large) bear paw prints drying in the morning dew. Then in perfect synchronicity whilst crossing the mouths of coastal rivers the following day we spotted the bears fodder. Vast shoals of spawning salmon adjusting their gills before heading up stream.  Nature is literally bursting at its seams in Hokkaidos short and bountiful summer season.

Snakes crossing

Friendly foxes

BIG (hopefully not hungry) bears

Shoals of spawning (plump and juicy) salmon, if only we had a net handy!

Not having seen the sea since Halong Bay cycling down the East coast has been an awesome reacquaintance.  I’m typing this post at another free campsite with the Pacific Ocean filling my view and senses.  The sun seems like it will be back for a while and we’re getting aligned to the unique pace and vibe of Japan.

Our current free campsite, a great place to write a blog 🙂

There’s still lots to see in the Northern reaches of this magical country.  We’ll certainly be down to the birthday suites again before long, hopefully keeping clear of hungry bears and we’ll look forward to writing again when we can.

T&B

X