If harvesting stories was a past time then travelling by bike would be your compost!  Our last few weeks of Japan continued to burst with mind boggling nature, from exploding mountains and their ghostly hareem of sediment lakes to the tranquil temples, rivers and forests of Nikko. And as the mercury went sub zero we’ve kept the fires burning with saki amidst the company and tales of fellow travellers. A reunion in Tokyo rounded off our stay. The livers are begging for mercy, our throats are still feeling the karaoke burn and its been a sad farewell to a unique, captivating and beautiful country.

The peddles first took us to Matsushima since our last post. A natural bay with over 200 small, forested islands sets a honey trap for tourists.  With weekend sunshine to boot it was strange to bounce through the buzzing crowds.  The hordes are joined with suitable price tags so we set up for a night wild (insomniac) camping next to a busy rail track on the precipice of a pungent sewage overflow.  It’s not always caldera lake back drops and campfire sunsets 😦

The islands of Matsushima

The cycling gods continued to be against us the next day. An isolated and pricey campsite meant washing in a storm drain before pitching behind a farm.  Though getting back into the mountains meant the cycling and views more than made up for the lack of sleep.  Pushing on we finally summited a 1000m pass to reach the town of Yamagata.

Hidden daily gems in the mountains surrounding Yamagata

One of the better daily (chilly) mountain washes

A typhoon had been forecast the following afternoon hence we sensibly decided to find a hostel.  When it’s such a rare occurrence to get a bed we won the lottery in the company and generosity of our host, Hideo.  Breakfast, communal dinners, board and unlimited saki for the unbelievable sum of £15 each.  A hotch potch of international travellers was a super reminder of the beauty in sharing new and different company.

As the weekend approached we would have willingly stayed some extra nights, alas Hideos reputation meant there’d be no more room at his Inn.  Rain was back on the menu so we hit the road to the neighbouring town of Kitakata.  Keeping us in Japanese cheer we met another friendly national traveller with a shared taste, and ample supply, of whiskey.  A toasty onsen within spitting distance gave us two more days sheltering before our peddles had us on the move.

New friends (whiskey n all ;))

Climbing up to the Bandai Plateau the temperature was dropping down to -1 at night. A lucky glut of spare blankets helped us through (care of the campsite management) and we spent a couple of days exploring this unique area.  125 years ago the top 600m of Bandai mountain unexpectedly exploded killing and injuring 500 people and changing the topography of the surrounding land in a shower of ash and debris.  These huge deposits have morphed over the years to create a surreal set of sediment lakes who’s hues and colours change with the sun.  Magical monstrous coy carp have been introduced to a few but the back drop of autumn leaves and the decapitated mountain set a unique ambience.

Bandai mountain is the crater taking up the whole background

Monstrous Coy Carp

Bandais hareem of sediment lakes

The beginnings of autumn

Nature in spectacular harmony 🙂

The cold spell continued but clear skies wrapped us in warmth as we descended to Inawashiro lake and a couple of days rest.  Flanked by golden ripe rice fields we set up on the Western shores with the back of Bandai mountain in view.  A combination of the changing weather and Japanese hospitality has given us a taste for saki so we toasted our last chilly nights in the mountains before starting the final leg to Tokyo.

Golden rice fields and clear skies

Evening scenes on the banks of Inawashiro

We’d have one last detour to the temple town of Nikko on the journey South.  With no campsites in the vicinity we pitched on the banks of the beautiful Watarase river.  Water in Japan is plentiful and these rivers provide an incredible spectacle of human intervention and management.  Throughout the country we’ve witnessed various structures cradling the clear waters from massive staircases and bollards to funnels and plunge pools.  All an attempt to slow the flow and Watarase was a fantastic finish.

A peaceful sleep by Watarase river with Nikko in the distance

Water management at its most beautiful and best

The temples and huge pine forests of Nikko were another treat in Japans bountiful selection box. Restored with the perfection and detail we’ve come come to understand as an important thread in this countries psyche. The Shinto Shrines and Bhuddist temples opened up another window to the past.

Nikko temples in a forest of ancient pines

Meticulously restored Nikko

Old meets new in a chariot parade through Nikko town

Three days were now all that remained between us and Tokyo. Unfortunately we got some freezing rain for our company on the final stint. With friends arriving from London and others already here we had a jam-packed week ahead and no room to be late. Unfortunately, in the excitement and haste to get there we left one of our tent poles in the mountains.  The last night camping with the tent strung up between trees and our clothes wet and cold gave us the motivation we needed to take on the sprawling suburbia of Tokyo.

So the cycling ended and the reunions began.  It was awesome to catch up with friends and introduce Brian to the people I hold dear.  Watching newcomers experience this city for the first time was a splendid treat of it’s own.  Lots of late nights, catch ups and laughter with the those you love was again a reminder that the fodder for memories is everywhere and anywhere. 

From nature to Tokyo, take a deep breath and dive in!

The love for everything kawai (cute) is another die-hard Japanese trait

Ellie in from London giving Tokyo chique

People both old and new have been as much a highlight of the last three months as the nature. And as we board the plane to NZ where we’ll meet up with family along the way, we know the rich compost of cycle touring harbours more tales, wonder and friends to come.

Hope you’re all composting lots of stories to 🙂

Till next time…

Tommy & Brian

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