If following natural disasters was a hobby then we’d be well inducted to the VIP lounge.  ‘4 (extreme) seasons in one day’ topped off by an earthquake has welcomed us to the shores of NZ.  An isolated thin strip of land in the Southern Pacific means both weather and nature are spectacular and wild.  We’ve cycled through mind-blowing middle earth forests, peddled around volcanoes and in between it all, still had time to catch up with a gang of relatives 🙂

We were warmly welcomed off the plane by Brians sister.  Cramming in the sights of Auckland, a  fishing trip with Brian junior and Vera and being amidst a busy family household had the days fly by. No sooner had we said hello then we were bidding farewell from pannier packed bikes.

Aucklands volcanic Rangitoto island

Summiting Rangitoto with Brians sister Paula

Fishing trip care of cool-as-a-cucumber Brian Jnr

Dropped off at the start of the Haruaki Rail Trail the first days peddle was a kind and flat re-introduction. Passing through farm land and small towns with the rolling hills of the Southern Coromandel in view got us back in the cycling frame of mind.

An easy return to the saddle care of the Haruaki Rail Trail

Up and through a gorge to the West we reached Waihi beach the following day.  There’s been many things to adjust to in NZ and getting our heads around the various laws for wild camping was top of the list.  Discrete seems to be the word for cyclists and we’re becoming accustomed to popping our tent up behind bushes and beyond the prying eyes of evening and morning police patrols.

Sunset pitches to hide from evening patrols are a daily practice

Along with the camping challenges NZ has presented a wonder of other new dynamics.  The changing weather has been spectacular from the start. Along the way we’ve heard of and met cyclists who’ve thrown in the towel because of the freezing winds and wet days.  Topped off by the fact there isn’t much flat ground in the North Island the going is pretty intense. Thankfully after 2.5 years in the saddle we’ve come to see the struggles as part of the magic, so we’re taking things as they roll to meet us.

The book ends of soggy days have had bouts of sunshine and as we left Waihi to go inland to Rotarua, the sun warmed our journey.  Being a small island with an even smaller population, infrastructure here can be limited.  Motorways are usually single lane’d roads which come with both an ominous amount of road kill and hurtling gigantic logging trucks.  A hairy stint on Highway 2 had us arrive on the shores of (smelly) Lake Rotarua with a sigh and in need of a stiff drink. Smelly by nickname, smelly by nautre, the air of Rotarua is permeated by the suplhuric odour of its natural hotpools.  Vast open multicoloured waters steam and bubble around the periphery of the centre adding a prehistoric fringe to this touristy town.

Multicoloured hot pools of Rotarua, keeping things prehistoric

We were off the bikes then for a weekend trip to visit my cousin and her family in Gisborne.  True to form the sun always shines on the East Coast and we explored the treasures of Rere river and got another lovely dose of family time.

Another dose of family time in Gisborne

Brian and Rodney after taking on the surf in Gizzy

Sister Frankie getting brave on Rere Rockslide

All together at Rere Falls

Getting back to Rotarua we’d left our bikes with the parents of my sisters physio. Another fabulous aspect of being in NZ is that complete strangers often go out of their way to make you feel welcome or strike up a chat.  Spending the evening with two strangers who became friends had us leave refreshed and ready for the road.

Two days and we arrived in Taupo where we were greeted by snow capped mountains on the Southern shore of this beautiful lakeside town.  En route we kept ourselves warm along the ‘Hot Springs Highway’ in some rustic hot streams and learnt the dangers of camping in farmers fields, as we scrapped the pats off our ground sheet the following morning.  A night free camping by the emerald freezing run off stream from the lake and we were up and over the never ending hills to reach Pureora Forest.

Great Lake Taupo 🙂

Keeping warm care of the hot springs highway pools

Free camping magic outside Taupo

It was time for a day off before we took on the next chunk of peddling.  We’d be meeting the Timber Trail, an old logging track which runs the 85km length of the Eastern reserve.  Unfortunatley the night before we took to the saddles the rain came back.  Perfect for ducks, not so great for a 3 foot wide muddy forest trail on fully loaded touring bikes with no suspension.  The challenge began but the scenery as ever didn’t disappoint.  Moss caked forests taken straight from the pages of Tolkien and giant tree ferns, a plant which is as much of a national treausre as the kiwi.

Entering the Timber Trail things get a little Tolkein’esque

Sharing forests with NZ famous giant fern trees

Slipping and sliding our way along the rain didn’t abate. A cold nights camping in the the middle of the trail and we were up for day 2.  From the thin, winding logging trail the path opened up into a slightly wider old Timber railway.  Damp, dark and vast crevices cut through mountains and swinging suspension bridges across ravines in place of the old tracks where the highlights to keep us going.  Though splurging on a proper night camping, feed and hot shower in Tamaranui at the end was an essential finishing treat.

High wire gorge crossings

Keeping things damp and dark on the old Timber railway trail

Waking the next morning to a barrage of texts we soon heard about the 7.5 quake which hit the North of the South Island just past midnight.  The exertion of the Timber trail luckily had us sleep through. These extreme elements all amount to make travelling through NZ feel like you’re stepping into another world.  The convivial nature of the people, the ever changing eye-popping scenery and the extreme elements battering, warming or shaking your back makes you feel like you’re somewhere special. 

The charm and solidarity of it’s people are undoubtedly bound through living in such an extreme place and being so few.  We’ve no doubt there lies more mysteries and adventures beyond the hills. And natural disasters permitting, we’ll be writing the next post from the Southerly sister of these two great islands.

For now, bon voyage!

Tommy & Brian

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